Gulai Taboh The bowl I pulled toward me at Warung Makan Wo Erli looked like vegetable soup that someone’s grandmother had been guarding since sunrise. Pale gold, a little glossy at the edges, with pieces of fish and shrimp surfacing between beans and leaves I could not name yet. I had ladled it myself, because that is how things work at this warung in Krui. Then I took the first spoonful, and the name finally made sense. This was gulai taboh. What Is Gulai Taboh? Gulai taboh is a coconut milk curry from Lampung, built around fish and stretched with vegetables. It belongs most closely to the Pesisir Barat coast, where Krui is the main town, and families have handed it down for generations. Indonesia listed it as intangible cultural heritage in 2015, which tells you the dish matters well beyond the dinner table. The name is explained in a few ways. One common version says taboh is the Lampung word for coconut milk, which would make the name a plain description of what is in the po...
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