Pekhos masin Gulai in Sumatra usually means one thing before anything else: coconut milk. Thick, rich, golden, and poured in generously. So when I found a dish at Warung Makan Wo Erli that was described as a gulai without it, I took a bowl out of pure curiosity. It was called pekhos masin, and it turned out to be one of the most interesting plates I ate in Krui. What Is Pekhos Masin? Pekhos masin is a fish dish from Pesisir Barat that borrows the idea of a gulai but leaves out the coconut milk. At Wo Erli, the fish can be tilapia, carp, or ikan tuhuk , the local name for blue marlin. Regional dish names are often spelled more than one way, so do not be surprised if you see it written differently on another menu. I will not pretend to know the full recipe. Warung cooks rarely hand those out, and I did not ask for one. What I can tell you is what ends up in the bowl and how it eats. A Gulai Without Its Usual Crown Coconut milk does a lot of work in a curry. It softens chili heat, r...
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